Thinking of trying something new for the main event? There are lots of reasons for ringing the festive changes foodwise. People are going for smaller birds, goose or duck for example – or being really bold and cooking roast beef or salmon. Sounds to me like a good opportunity to throw out some of the old ideas about wine while we’re at it.

The most important thing when it comes to matching food and wine is to trust your instincts – there are no hard and fast rules. Even so, it’s worthwhile trying to imagine what your favourite wines might be like with dishes you’re thinking of cooking.

I love new world Sauvignon Blancs but I can’t picture them with roast goose or duck in a rich, black-fruit based sauce. A red wine isn’t the only option – a bigger, fleshier white might surprise a few people. And don’t forget rosés, the best are worth considering.