The glossy, purply-black skinned aubergine, also known as an eggplant, often baffles cooks. Yet if you holiday in France or the Middle East, you'll see it served in every way imaginable. Classified like tomatoes as a fruiting vegetable, the aubergine originally hails from India but was brought to Europe by Arab spice traders. The purple variety is just one of many used round the world.

Buying

Aubergines are at their best now from July to September and are readily available. Whether you choose the baby variety (right) or the full-size ones, go for smooth, heavy aubergines with taut, even skin and bright green stems. And handle carefully as they're quite delicate and can bruise.

Storing

They'll keep nicely in the fridge for a few days.

Preparation

Don't worry about slicing, salting and draining for half an hour to reduce bitterness – these days, aubergines don't need it, although the salting process does reduce the amount of oil absorbed during cooking.

Eating

Delicious roasted, grilled, griddled or fried with oil, lemon, garlic or mint. Make them into dips, or use in bakes such as the classic moussaka.